Putting text on things can be intimidating. Here are a few options and tips that help me. 
Options:  Many options listed below that may work for text.  There is a lot of information on the internet about how to use each specifically.   
Carving:

1. On leather hard Greenware - Carving text or imprinting it in greenware: use a scraffito tool on leather hard clay to carve the text into the greenware (you can then fill the lines with an underglaze wash to make them stand out or paint with a semi-transparent glaze that will deepen the crevices
2. On leather hard Greenware  - Use a stamp (or even something like alphabet pasta which fires out in the kiln) to impress the letters into the leather hard clay    

Stamps: – use a stamp to apply the color on greenware / bisque / glass using fired or non fired products. Coat stamp with acrylic or underglaze color for text using a brush or sponge, then firmly press stamp on smooth area of piece and carefully lift off.)
Stencils – use them to airbrush, sponge or trace with on greenware / bisque / glass, with fired or non fired products.
Screen Print – purchase a pre made screen or create your own, variety of options to apply on any surface.  Easier than you think you can do it at home. (kits available through Colors For Earth)
Scratching text - in with a scraffito tool through underglaze / glass color (done by removing the color) on greenware / bisque / glass 
Baked on Sharpie - on glaze, (bake at 425 in home oven 30 min) or on acrylic surface.
Tracing images / text on your piece:  Use Contact paper, Carbon paper or tissues paper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaHDNOCnGqQ

Underglaze Options: 

1. Underglaze transfer – you can print your words in reverse mirror image) and invert the colors so the text is white an the background is black.  Print on a black and white laser printer or make a black and white photo copy.  Then paint underglazes over the words (white area) in the colors you want, applying heavily.  Before applying to leather hard greenware, spritz the ware and spritz the paper or quickly dunk in water.  Let the drips run off then smooth on the area (a rubber rib works nicely to smooth on).  Wait a few minutes, then peel away the paper (really thin paper is hard to remove).  This can also be applied on top of a glazed surface and refired.
   
2. Write the text on with underglaze pencils    

Decals:

1. Manufactured Traditional decals - Fire a ceramic decal on top of a glazed surface.  
2. Some of these decals can be applied over an acrylic surface and then sprayed again. Some hobby store decals can be applied the same way on acrylic surfaces.  Just spray the area to seal it. Then apply the decal and once it is completely dry, spray it several times with matte spray to further adhere and seal and it will disguise the edges with spray build up.

1. Make your own decals, different options for use on greenware, bisque or glazed surface

• Laser Toner decal – Used on glaze. When printed with a Laser Printer and creates a sepia look because of the iron content in certain laser toners, i.e. HP & Cannon  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKP2fFEgM5M#t=18

• Laser Toner Transfer on Clay   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COxDZnS20rY
• Waterslide Papilio Perga Flat decal paper – use any image printed, laser jet printer only, on this decal paper and apply it to a project.  Non fired application only, not permament or food safe.
• Lazertran decals – Apply on a glazed surface and use turpentine to set permanently secure the decal to the glaze. Using any image printed (color printer or ink jet) on the special decal paper

Free Hand:
I almost always just paint free hand, and occasionally use a stamp if it's a specific /cute text or logo, picture etc.  
I have used a decal when it's a quote or verse or large amount of text. See tips below for help.

Tips: 
- I measure the area to determine size and placement - do I want it all in a straight line, broken into two lines, angled or straight, centered etc.  
- I always write it out first on paper to see first to see how it will look. You can even put a little of your base coat color on the paper itself and when dry - experiment with different colors of text and styles of text - printing, cursive etc. You can cut this out and lay on your piece if you need more help visualizing what it will look like on your piece.
- When working with Non fired products like acrylics I Prep the area. If I put a lot of work into the base area under the writing, I don't want to have to redo it if I make a mistake with a letter, so I will usually prep that area first to be sure it's easily wipeable. Flat paint - like just an acrylic base coat will immediatly absorb any paint put over it, so it can not be wiped off - you usually have to repaint and usually it takes a couple of coats if you are writing dark text over a light base and this can then become lumpy.  
So, to avoid this, I will either - 
1. Antique the area. Depending on what you are working on, antiquing the surface will not only create a cool shaded look, but it will also seal that area. The oil in the antique naturally repels acrylic "water based" paints, so until the paint has completely dried and "set" it will wipe off very easily. I use damp paper towel and if the color appears to be smearing or not removing clean, a wet wipe will usually do the trick and it doesn't bother the antiqued base area underneath unless you use a forceful scrubbing motion, which isn't necessary. Once you are done, spray your piece and that will seal the acrylic text over any oil based antique to keep it from scratching off. I have never had any problems with this. 
2. You can also Lightly spray the area with Matte Spray and allow it to dry before writing on it if you don't want the antiqued look. This seals the surface making it easy to wipe off. Then spray again to see letters.

When working with fired products - I try to think through the fact that I will be putting text in an area and realize that I may need to wipe letters off- and how that will impact the area below. If mistakes are a fear, You might consider firing an underglaze area on first before painting text on so text can wipe off with damp sponge if needed without messing up base because it's already fired. 

Then finally when I am ready to apply the text: 
- Guide Lines: If needed to keep the writing straight or measured in a certain space, I will draw on any guide lines (bottom guide, height mark or start and stop marks) that might help with a water color fine tip marker. (You can get these from the office supply store, we use these to apply patterns on. Looks like a sharpie, but this marker will wash off easily with damp rag or completely fire out in the kiln.)  For acrylics, wash the line off once your painted text is dry. Be sure you paint the text with something that will not wipe off - don't use a translucent. If you are using fired products, the water color marker will fire off without leaving residue. 
Sometimes I even draw on the text with the water color marker to see how it will look and get it exactly as I want it to use as a guide. Then I paint over the top of it with my acrylic, sharpie etc.

- Decide what you will use to write / paint the text on with. 
You can use a sharpie marker if appropriate for your area, they come in all colors, but remember they are permanent - so you can't wipe them off if you make a mistake If you are very quick you may be able to get it off over a prepared surface, but keep in mind that this could be a problem. (But if you drew your text on with a washable marker first and you are simply tracing now with your sharpie to make it permanent, there may be less chance of making a mistake.
 
 I use my 10/0 liner loaded with paint slightly thinned with water which makes it flow more easily. Longer liners hold more paint and can help the text flow more smoothly, but can tend to get away from you and the tip can flip if you are not used to using this type of brush, so a shorter liner may be a better choice for you. Another great brush to use is the Kala Ultimate Scroller.  (Get this from Colors For Earth) This is an amazing brush and has a tuft of squirrel hair in the top near the ferrule that acts as a reservoir, holding extra paint so you can write longer without picking up your line to reload your brush.  They use this type of brush to detail scroll work on cars. 

Hope that helps, Happy Painting! 
Shelley

Antiquing is a very versatile product that helps us create many different effects. It should be applied over an acrylic base coat (which acts as a sealer and stops the antique from soaking into the bisque), and then wiped off with a paper towel or soft rag (like a t-shirt), leaving it only in the crevices.  Oil base antiques in my opinion are the most effective and clean up is done with a mineral spirit product (there are other options).  There are also water based antiques, these clean up with water but do not wipe off as smoothly or as evenly and do not give the same satiny finish.
It can several purposes, I'll just name a few: 
1.  By leaving a little of the antique behind in the cracks and crevice detail, it can create depth, shadow (and contrast if the antique is quite a bit darker than the base coat). 
2.  It would also camouflage uneven or messy lines and borders left behind by shaky hands.  
3. The antique would change the shade of the acrylics.  Using different colors of antique over different colors of acrylics can create many options for shading.  For example, If you wanted a nice leather look, you can paint a tan base coat on, which alone, is pale and flat and all one shade leaving it very uninteresting and not very authentic for leather, but by antiquing it with a rich brown you transform it to a darker shade, creating a basic leather or wood look.  It can also tone down a bright shade, which can be a negative if you are not aware of that before starting.
4.  It changes the texture and finish of the piece from matte and rough to smooth and satiny.  

Painting antique ON TOP of your final colors: Years ago the most common use for antique was just to paint your piece the individual colors of acrylics you want on each area (skin, hair, hat, shoes, coat, etc) and then paint antique over the top of your piece after it dries and wiping it down, spraying it with sealer and calling it good. However, there are many different ways to incorporate antiques into your painted pieces.  I don't normally use this method for an entire piece, but I do use it for things like skin tone, leather, wood etc.  Small areas on a piece that can just be antiqued and look fine being left alone after that.
 
Painting antique UNDERNEATH your final colors:  I rarely ever use antique as the final finish for an entire piece.  Most of the time I use the antique in the middle of the process, after initial base coating, but with full intentions of painting something over the top of it to be my final finish.
I may base coat with primer and use antique to get depth, then use translucents' to give color and final finish.
I may base coat with all one color or multiple colors, then antique to get depth and a satiny finish to use PaintStiks for color and final finish.
I may base coat and use antique to get depth, then wet brush or dry brush to get texture and change color. 
And sometimes, I amy base coat a piece (could be all one color or each area different according to piece) and the antique to get depth, then paint with acrylics again on the top. One such example is what I call "Reverse Antiquing" as shown in the pictures above.  These were all base coated with a light gray and antiqued with black (with the exception of the snowman, which was base coated light gray but antiqued with a dark teal and the terra-cotta pots on the other pieces were base coated with a terra-cotta color and antiqued with white).
Then I used acrylics, thinned with water slightly, and loaded onto soft blended hair taklon brushes (mostly flat shaders).  I painted each area the color I wanted it to be keeping the color thin and slightly "see through" so the black crevices in the detail areas would show through.   I used a swiping back and forth motion to get the color to apply thin and even, and then move on, not retouching an area it as it starts to dry - or you will just remove it and gouge a hole in your color.  I did not take the color clear to the edge, I left the dark crevices showing and when possible, angling my brush so the acrylic paint floated over the top of crevices so the paint didn't go down into the detail.  Be sure the brush is not loaded so full that the paint is dripping and running or the paint will run into the crevices.  If you have an area that is streaky.  Let the first coat dry, then swipe over it lightly again to even it out. Some areas, will just look solid, like the snowman's hat and shoes, but that's okay those are smooth areas without any detail to show through.  The buttons, I did just paint solid - but the overall piece still has the soft effect.


This is similar to how you would apply translucents' - but the difference is in the finish - the translucents' will look see though every where - using acrylics with this method, the colors look for the most part solid, but the cracks shows through.   Why wouldn't you just paint the colors on and antique with black on top of it?  You could, but the colors will all be dull and dark because the black will change the shade of each color it goes over. This method keeps the colors bright and clean looking as opposed to dull somewhat dingy. This method gives it a little softer look while keeping the colors as bright as you want.


I hope this helps a little and gives you some courage to try something new!  Feel free to comment here or ask questions and I will give you as much detail as I can to help you be successful!
Happy Painting!

I have found that the pieces I have enjoyed painting the most, and was the most pleased with the finish, were those that I combined several products and techniques.  I love love to paint with acrylics, but I have found that adding a type of translucent paint with my acrylics makes my piece stand out.  As well as adding even a small section with a specialty product like Crackle or a specialty technique like marbling makes a big impact on the outcome.   This fall angel has wet brushing, antiquing, intense translucence and marbling as well as a little band of fired gold.

I have added several new How to Technique Packets to my online store as well as a few new Project packets for halloween.   The "how to" packets teach the techniques.  The project packets contain instructions to complete specific pieces.  Several of this project packets combine multiple techniques.